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A history of the Irish in Milwaukee

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The story of how the Irish came to Milwaukee is a quintessentially American tale of immigration, hardship, community, and adventure.

The first trickle of immigrants from Ireland to Milwaukee arrived in the 1830s. At this time, Wisconsin was not yet a state but a vast territory almost devoid of white settlement. Today we think of the state as being part of the ‘Midwest’ but then there was thought to be nothing ‘middling’ about its geography: it was a part of the West, plain and simple.

To make the journey to Milwaukee and set up home there required true pioneer spirit and the hardy handful of Irish who were among the city’s first inhabitants were flushed with a sense of adventure.

In the early years, Milwaukee was dominated by Germans; they were the city’s preeminent group but by the end of the 1840s growing number of Irishmen and women had begun to settle in the city.

The reason was not hard to pinpoint. The Great Famine that began in 1845 left a scar on the Irish soul that will never heal. A million died and a further million and a half fled - the vast majority going to America.

Chased across the Atlantic by sharks that tailed the coffin ships looking for an easy meal, the result was that by 1848 some 15% of the population of Milwaukee was Irish.

Few when stepping aboard a ship bound for the New World would have told their fellow travelers they intended to strike out west. Most made a go it at first back east and the average arrival had already spent seven years in America before they decided to hitch their wagon west.

For those that did, a few common trends emerged. First of all, the land was cheaper the further you got from the east coast and after centuries of landlords, many Irish found the prospect of buying a patch of land to call their own an irresistible pull.

For others, it was simply a sense of adventure. They had come this far, seen so much, why not push on even further?

Milwaukee in 1872.

One Mrs. Greaney persuaded her husband and his brother to move west because she, “could always see bright things in the distance.”

Three brothers from the Burren in Co. Clare - an area particularly badly hit by the Famine - had thought to settle in Illinois but after they were told there was a fever in the state they decided to press on to Wisconsin which an old man had told them had “the best drinking water in the world!”

Often, all it took was for one Irishman to end up in Milwaukee and dozens more of his friends would follow.

For their part, the Territorial Government was eager to encourage more immigration and placed adverts in all the major Irish newspapers back east urging readers to make the trip west.

It took, “An entrepreneurial spirit and a willingness to take chances [for people] to make the trek westward”, the historian David Holmes concluded and the result was a city of hardy Irish folk, keen to work hard and willing to make a success of their new city.

The building of railroads saw a flood of Irishmen race west to help in the construction and after the tracks were laid and the last paycheck cashed hundreds decided they wouldn’t leave but settle down in Wisconsin.

As with everywhere in America, sectarianism against the Irish was rife and one of the great attractions of Milwaukee was that many of their new German neighbors were Catholic, too.

Nevertheless, it took several generations before the two would seamlessly blend together and most Irish lived strictly amongst their fellow countrymen and women.

Most settled in Downtown Milwaukee and the area soon garnered something of a reputation as an Irish “ghetto”.   

Others preferred to set up home in the more rural areas that surrounded the city and it was here, isolated from German or Anglo-Saxon influences, that the Irish culture took root deepest of all.

One William Shea, a native speaker of the Irish language, recalled asking two teenage girls for directions to his Uncle Joe’s in broken English shortly after arriving in Wisconsin.  

“When I asked them the way to Uncle Joe’s, they started making fun of me, and I told them in Irish they could kiss my ass and one girl answered back in Irish and said, ‘I don’t have to.’”.

ilwaukee in 1879.

As they put down roots, so the Irish became into politics and, although the Milwaukee Irish never grew into as strong a faction as the Irish in New York in Massachusetts, they did exert a certain influence over the politics of their state.

Most Irish became strong supporters of the Democratic Party - the Republicans were regarded suspiciously as a Protestant party and the Democrats hailed as the champions of immigrants.

In 1852, the state legislature’s Irish caucus succeeded in passing a motion condemning Britain for their imprisonment of Thomas Francis Meagher and his associates following the Young Irelander Rebellion of 1848.

Tragically in 1860, just as the community was beginning to flex its political muscles, many of its best and the brightest were snatched away.

One night in September the PS Lady Elgin left Chicago where many passengers had been to hear Lincoln’s opponent, Stephen A. Douglas, give a campaign speech.

But the ship was soon being buffeted by gale force winds and crashed into a small schooner. Within 20 minutes the ship had sunk below the wild waves of Lake Michigan, taking 300 souls with it.

The vast majority of the dead were Irish and every single Irish family was said to have lost a relative. Due to the political nature of the trip, a great number were involved in politics and historians have since speculated that the loss of so much talent permanently transferred the balance of power to Milwaukee’s German community.

The community did go on to provide the city with its longest-ever serving mayor, Daniel Hoan. Mayor Hoan was elected in 1916 and served 24 years back to back in office. A staunch socialist, he is credited with launching the city’s system of public buses after the death of a friend at the dangerous driver.

But few would argue that the Wisconsin Irish ever wielded the same power or clout as their relatives to the east.

As the last of the city’s first generation immigrants died off after the First World War, so too did the community’s collective political cohesion. The Irish in Milwaukee were just as likely to vote for the Republican candidate as their neighbors and many proudly cast their votes for the most hated man ever spawned by Irish America: Senator Joseph McCarthy.

McCarthy grew up in eastern Wisconsin where few of other Irish had settled and his mostly Dutch Catholic neighbors dubbed his home, “the Irish settlement".

In the 1950s, there was still a general suspicion amongst Protestant Americans that Catholics’ primary loyalty was to the Pope and not the United States. Historians have debated whether McCarthy’s rabid anti-communism was an attempt to prove his loyalty to the country he loved.

And many of his Irish American constituents flocked to his banner of hatred with enthusiasm.

“Everyone knows,” one letter wrote to an Irish paper opined, “the great job Senator Joseph McCarthy is doing in fighting communist infiltration in America. Only recently the Bishop of Cork, after a visit to America, revealed the courageous fight McCarthy has made against communism. It is the duty of the Catholic… not to sit idle, or remain indifferent to this attack on a fellow Irishman and Catholic of whom we are proud.”

If Irish Wisconsinites were key to the rise of one famous Republican, 60 years later they received a mixture of ire and praise for helping elected Donald Trump as President. The state had been regarded as part of Hillary’s “blue firewall” but the hemorrhaging of the Catholic vote saw the Badger State turn a surprising shade of red on election night.

Today, only 6.5% of Milwaukee’s population claims Irish heritage (rising to 11% across the state of Wisconsin) but they’re an influential few percent without a doubt.  


Getting creative in Co. Kilkenny!

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This year, government initiative Creative Ireland is highlighting some of the best projects, events, and initiatives that are bringing culture and the arts to the forefront in every Irish county and Co. Kilkenny is no different.

Kilkenny is a bastion of culture in Ireland. Featuring architecture from as far back as the Stone Age and modern-day national cultural agencies like the Heritage Council and the Design and Crafts Council of Ireland, Kilkenny attracts the cream of the crop of makers, thinkers, and players to its cities and towns, and turns out its fair share of notable creatives, too. Architect James Hoban, best known for designing the White House in the Washington, D.C., was a Kilkenny native, and singer Seamus Moore also claims the county as his home. Kilkenny is also home to the famous Kilkenny Design, and the Oscar-winning animation studio Cartoon Saloon. 

We especially recommend paying attention to these upcoming events and initiatives, which are a part of the Creative Ireland county initiatives and beyond.

Ballykeefe Summer Events, June - August

The Ballykeefe Amphitheatre at Old School in Kilmanagh, Co. Kilkenny boasts a state-of-the-art canopy which perfectly complements the astounding natural acoustics found here. Show include concerts by The Riptide Movement and Ham Sandwich, in addition to a production of "Around the World in 80 Days."

Kilkenny Fieldnames Project

Support and training will be offered to local communities in 2017 to record and map field names, building on the success of 2016 field names book launch.

Fairytale Festival Kilkenny

This was an enchanting day out for the entire family in Shankill Castle, Paulstown, Kilkenny back on July 23. Visitors and locals alike enjoyed lots of fairy tale-themed fun including bouncy castles, archery, a treasure hunt, fairy trail and the chance to meet some of your favorite fairytale characters. All events and activities except wand-making were free.

Rhyme Rag

Image: RhymeRag.net

The Rhyme Rag, featuring the work of young Kilkenny writers, was a poetry publication begun in 2005 before moving online to www.rhymerag.net in 2010. Throughout 2017, the publication will concentrate on developing a ‘Young Ensemble’ of writers to strengthen the future of the online poetry publication for young people. 

Kilkenny Arts Festival

Photo: Facebook

The Arts Festival is an opportunity to encounter extraordinary artists and unique collaborations in the magical ancient buildings and gardens of Kilkenny. Since 1974, the Kilkenny Arts Festival has brought the best in classical music, contemporary music, poetry, and craft workshops to Kilkenny. This year's festival ran from August 11-20 so be sure to look out for it in 2018.

McDonagh Famine Experience

The historic nature of the MacDonagh Junction shopping site is well documented. On the grounds of the current shopping mall, was the former Union Workhouse built in 1842 which accommodated up to 1,300 local poor people. When the Famine began in 1845 the Poor House quickly became the City Famine Workhouse. This year, interpretive signage and a community art project will be introduced to the McDonagh Junction to raise awareness of the human stories at Kilkenny Workhouse. 

A young boy exploring Heritage Week in Kilkenny. Image: Creative Ireland.

Kilkenny Heritage Week 2017

Kilkenny Heritage week takes over Kilkenny Town (pictured) and beyond.

From exhibitions, guided Tours of Kilkenny Castle, Shankill Castle and the Dunmore Caves to a Hawkeye Bird of Prey experience, there really is something for everyone to enjoy in Kilkenny’s Heritage Week. Over 90 events will take place throughout city and county from August 19 to 27, 2017.

Kilkenny Country Music Festival

This truly unique festival is set in Gowran Park with built-in facilities and a giant dance floor. Expect music and dance with some of the best country musicians in Ireland including Mike Denver and many more. Begins August 20.

Bookville Kilkenny

Inaugural county wide children’s & family festival focusing on reading, writing, storytelling, comedy, illustration and the visual arts using the Kilkenny County library branch network and Kilkenny Arts Office. Comedy, illustration, storytelling and the visual arts will all be featured.  October 11 - 15, 2017.

Graiguenamanagh "Town of Books" Festival

Photo: Facebook

A fully fledged festival that features art, music, food, and crafts, and a whole host of fringe activities. Graiguenamanagh, for one weekend only, turns into a book lovers' paradise where booksellers are matched up with a number of empty spaces in the town. August 25-27, 2017.

Savour Kilkenny Food Festival

One of Ireland’s premier food festivals, the Savour Kilkenny Food Festival will take place October 27 - 30, 2017. While the full schedule won’t be released until September, you can expect all sectors of the food industry to be represented. The Savoury Village transforms into a foodie haven with heaps of delicious tempting food stalls, celebrity chef cooking demos, talks, workshops, competitions and unique dining events. Classes for kids, too!

ScareFest Hallowe'en Festival

The Cope family have resided in the 300-year-old Shankill Castle in Paulstown for 25 years. They run a ghost tour through their home in October, inviting guests to explore the mysterious happenings of the haunted castle and graveyard with them on ghost tours and murder mystery dinners. Originally a Butler tower-house, Shankill Castle, Paulstown, Co. Kilkenny is a Queen Anne house built in 1708 and named after the old church and graveyard, located in the castle grounds. The ghost tours are night-time and candle-lit.

A member of the Cope family leads the tour through the most haunted areas of the castle and graveyard and relays the tales of past residents, along with an account of the recently recorded paranormal experiences. The ghost tours are not for those under the age of 15, but the castle also hosts events for younger children during the daylight hours, including wand and quill-making workshops. October 2017.

Yulefest Kilkenny

Photo: Facebook

Get into the festive mood with Kilkenny’s annual Yulefest during the run up to Christmas. Kilkenny’s enchanting festival of music, food, craft, and entertainment is fun for all the family. Take a stroll through the many markets hosting a variety of crafts, food and warming drinks. It’s a fantastic way to spend an evening when this winter wonderland lights up the night sky. Watch exclusive performances at the Medieval Mile Museum or why not try your hand ice skating at Cillin Hill. Weekends in December.

Kilkenny Roots Festival

Photo: Anthony Griffin Photography

Since 1998, The Kilkenny Rhythm and Roots Festival has attracted some of the finest names in the Americana canon; acts like Calexico, Giant Sand, Ryan Adams, Alejandro Escovedo, Mark Eitzel, Guy Clark, and more. From midday to midnight audiences wind their way through the medieval streets sampling the huge range of music in the 30 plus venues, hosting over 30 acts from Ireland, USA, Canada, UK, and Sweden, with over 80 ticketed and free shows. May 4 - 8, 2018.

Check out Co. Kilkenny's full culture and creativity plans here.

Is there an upcoming event in Co. Kilkenny you think people should know about? Tell us in the comment section.

Northern Ireland offers a coastal touring route that entices and exhilarates

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Back in early July, as some of the world’s best golfers battled for the Irish Open title in Portstewart, County Derry, one of the commentators drew a comparison with a faraway place.

At that moment a camera was focused on a tranquil, watery scene.

The sky overhead was blue, the sea but a darker reflection of it, and some folk were having a grand old time in a boat just offshore.

The commentator compared it with Pebble Beach in California.

This would have to be a compliment to most places on earth.  

That said, the stretch of coastline on either side of Portstewart stands on its own merits.

And the same can be said for the coastline stretching further in either direction, to Belfast one way, Derry/Londonderry the other.

For this is the Causeway Coastal Route, an ancient rampart with a catchy new name.

Ireland’s coastline is a wonder.

Parts of it have been well known to visitors for years, most especially the Ring of Kerry and Dingle Peninsula.

In more recent times the Wild Atlantic Way has been presented to the wider world for what it truly is: wild, ocean-facing, and traversable.

Now the Causeway Coastal Route is being offered as an Irish journey between two cities, one that covers ancient ground by means of modern modes of transport.

It also covers more than one body of water.

Starting in Belfast, with its famous lough, the coastal route is lapped by the most northerly drops of the Irish Sea, the North Channel, one of the "Ocean’s Seven" bodies of water, the Sea of Moyle, a name drawn from the depths of Irish folklore, and, last but very much not least, the Atlantic Ocean.

By way of explanation, the Ocean's Seven consists of seven long-distance open-water swims and is the marathon swimming equivalent of the Seven Summits mountaineering challenge.

The seven bodies of water that are the Cook Strait, the Molokai Channel, the English Channel, the Catalina Channel, the Tsugaru Strait, the Strait of Gibraltar and the aforementioned North Channel.

Suffice it to say, for the Causeway traveler the channel is generally better for gazing at than plunging into.

A car journey from Belfast to Derry/Londonderry along the Causeway Coastal Route would not take all that much time if you were concerned about time.

The idea, of course, is to take your time – to linger, to savor, to imbibe.

And no better place to start than in Belfast, a storied Victorian city full of old wonders and more recently minted ones based on old wonders such as can be found at the Titanic Center, not only now one of the most popular visitor attractions in all of Ireland, but hailed as the “World’s Leading Tourist Attraction” at the 2016 World Travel Awards.

Causeway Coastal Route: Titanic Experience in Belfast. Image credit: Tony Pleavin.

Heading north from Belfast the idea is to follow a meandering route, one that takes you by way of the peninsula of Island Magee and its Gobbins Cliff Walk, to the town of Larne.

Regarded as the most dramatic cliff walk in the whole of Europe, the roughly 2-mile stretch of path starts off at the “Wise Eye”, named after Berkeley Dean Wise, the Irish railway engineer who masterminded the incredible tourist attraction hovering over the crashing waves of the North Channel. Here you get access to the most spectacular section of the original path, first constructed over 100 years ago, and from here you can take advantage of a fully-guided tour and hear the tales of local smugglers while enjoying the fresh feel of the Irish Sea wind.   

Causeway Coastal Route: Gobbins Cliff Path. Image: Arthur Ward.

Once you leave the cliff walk and make your way to Larne, proceed into the magical Glens of Antrim (take your time herein and step into Glenariff Forest Park, a nature reserve in the heart of the glens with three spectacular waterfalls and a choice of peaceful riverside walks) and then continue back to the coast and to some of the most picturesque villages and small towns on the entire island of Ireland.

These would include Glenarm, Carnlough, Cushendall and Cushendun, the last of these being the most northerly of the foursome.

Causeway Coastal Route: The Glens of Antrim. Image credit: Christopher Hill.

From Cushendun it is possible to see Scotland on a clear day – this unless you find yourself in the Cushendun Caves, one of the many filming locations in this corner of Ireland for "Game of Thrones".

It is hereabouts that the traveler sets eyes on the Straits of Moyle, or Sea of Moyle, famed in Celtic mythology through the story of the Children of Lir. 

This is the narrowest expanse of water in the North Channel between County Antrim and the Mull of Kintyre in Scotland.

The distance between Ireland and Scotland here is only about twelve miles. But twelve very challenging miles, even if you are up to Ocean’s Seven standards, so a nice paddle should be enough for the passer-by who has places to go and appointments to keep.

One such appointment would be a stop (albeit back down the road a wee bit, but this journey is all about meandering) at Glenarm Castle which has been home to the McDonnell family since the 1600s and is surrounded by gardens that are among the oldest in Ireland.

Causeway Coastal Route: Glenarm Castle. Image credit: Laura Duffy.

The Causeway Route begins to turn westward now, just to the south of Fair Head, but still to the north is Rathlin Island which is an offshore, and must-see, ingredient in the journey that is accessed by ferry.

Rathlin is a standout in more ways than one. Being an island it does just that, but it also holds the title of being Northern Ireland’s only inhabited island with a population of about 140.

That would be the people.

Causeway Coastal Route: Rathlin Island. Image credit: Gardiner Mitchell.

Rathlin is also home to plentiful wildlife including seals and significant numbers of seabirds including kittiwakes, razorbills, guillemots, and those charming favorites, puffins.

At this point, you are facing true west and into what is the very heart of the Causeway Coastal Route.

This is where you can trip the light fantastic, or perhaps not, by stepping onto the famed Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge.

The bridge is about a hundred feet above the sea and has linked Carrick Island and the County Antrim mainland for around 350 years.

Don’t worry, the bridge has been maintained and upgraded and you can take in the view with ease, that being the view below, above, and all around.

Causeway Coastal Route: Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge. Image credit: Arthur Ward.

Down the road a wee bit, the visitor reaches the place that gives the Causeway Route its name. The Giant’s Causeway is a natural wonder that looks like it was deliberately set in place.

Lonely Planet has opined that it "looks for all the world like the handiwork of giants.”

You can take your pick: a geological phenomenon dating back sixty million years, or a battleground for giants?

Look at it long enough and both explanations seem to work.

They say that the Giant’s Causeway at sunset will be a standout lifetime memory.

The Causeway Coastal route, of course, include the Giant's Causeway in Co. Antrim. Image credit: @storytraveler

Well, before the giants set to it again this might be the moment to repair inland a bit to the village of Bushmills, home of the famous distillery, and a place now noted for its fine food too.

Distilling here dates back to 1608 and Bushmills is the oldest location with a license to distill on the island of Ireland.

The distillery’s doors are open to visitors and they come from all over the world.

Causeway Coastal Route: Dunluce Castle. Image credit: Chris Hill.

Onwards to the haunting ramparts and towers of Dunluce Castle, which dates back to the 13th century.

When you cast eyes on Dunluce you can immediately see that, back in the days of sieges and such, it was intended for invited visitors only.

Well, this is a time for visitors.

And golfers.

Not too many arrow shots from Dunluce is Royal Portrush, one of the most famous links golf courses in the world, the venue for The Open Championship in 1951, and host again in 2019.

Causeway Coastal Route: Royal Portrush golf course. Image credit: Gardiner Mitchell.

This is the last significant stop on the Causeway Coastal Route in County Antrim, but if you stop here there is more than golf to enjoy.

This stretch of the coast offers fine beaches, places to swim and walk and work up an appetite in clean, vigorous air. And local hospitality is ready for your appetite, the area being increasingly rated for its restaurants and hostelries.

Over the county line and the golf theme endures with Portstewart – of the aforementioned comparison to Pebble Beach.

A quick diversion here can mean a visit to the town of Coleraine, and then it’s back to the Causeway Coastal Route as it meanders towards the walled city of Derry/Londonderry.

Before those walls, a stop at Downhill Demesne is recommended. Downhill is the site of one of Northern Ireland's most iconic landmarks, Mussenden Temple.

Causeway Coastal Route: Mussenden Temple. Image credit: Matthew Woodhouse Photography.

It was originally built as a replica of the Temple of Vesta in Italy, a folly of course, but one to behold, though perhaps while shaking one’s bemused head.

Not far away is Mountsandel, purportedly the oldest archaeological site on the island of Ireland. That’s quite a title since there have been people on the island for, give or take, 9,000 years.

And onwards again to the route’s final destination, Derry/Londonderry, a city that has undergone a renaissance in a time of peace, and which has opened its gates wide to welcome and embrace the visitor from near and far.

Here is a place to linger and enjoy.

And at the end of it all, well, there is always the road back to Belfast.

Been there, done that you say.

Not really, because not all the places to visit have been mentioned in these few lines.

So back you go. Same distance, more or less.

But twice the enjoyment.

This post is proudly produced in partnership with Tourism Ireland. Find out more on Ireland.com

Ireland's secret breathtaking destinations

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The best hidden gems of Ireland you may not have thought to visit

Ireland is one of the most beautiful places to visit, whether there is rain or sunshine there is an abundance of sights to see. Any visitor to our shores will always have an itinerary of places they want to pay a visit which is a fantastic idea but they are usually all the big well-known attractions. So keeping that in mind we have decided to take a look at some of the hidden gems that a lot of people overlook when choosing what they want to see. There might even be a few places our very own residents won’t recognize.

Torc Waterfall, County Kerry, Ireland

This is certainly one of the best things to come from the fact that it rains so much in Ireland. Located between the beautiful towns of Killarney and Kenmare, this waterfall is surrounded by scenic woodland views within the well-known Ring of Kerry route. The views from below are breathtaking after a heavy downpour which sees the water gushing from the Owengariff River leading into ‘The Devil’s Punchbowl’ located in the nearby Mountains of East Kerry, also known as the Mangerton Mountain range. There are also steps for visitors to climb and get an even closer look, but make sure to bring a rain jacket.

Beara Peninsula, Counties Cork and Kerry, Ireland

This vast region in the south west of Ireland is located in both the counties of Cork and Kerry. This untouched part of Ireland is filled with an abundance of views. Much like the Ring of Kerry this is a fantastic driving route with winding roads and picturesque scenery. There are many sights to behold within this vast region which will take up most of your weekend if you want to experience everything. From Healy Pass Road to Bere Island and everything in between there is beauty at every turn. For those feeling a bit daring why not try and cycle the 86 mile (138km) Beara Way route.

Baylough Corrie Lake, County Tipperary, Ireland

Flowers at Baylough Corrie Lake in full bloom

This beautiful lake is located on side of Knockaunabulloga and is close to the highest point of the Knockmealdown Mountain range. This is a hiker and cyclists dream as the journey to the lake is filled with breath-taking views. Visitors will be able to enjoy the sights of The Vee, The Sugar Loaf Mountain range and Gortacullen Wood to name just a few. The best time to visit this area is during the summer months when the flowers around Baylough are in full bloom and provide a fantastic purple haze provided by the rhododendron flowers that inhabit the region. Don’t worry about all the difficult place names, your smartphone will help you out.

Jumping Wall of Kildemock, County Louth

This is one of the more mysterious sites on the list. Located near the town of Ardee in County Louth, this site is home to a church ruin which has gone down in local folklore. The story goes that the main gable of this once functioning church jumped inward three feet from its foundation. There are differing accounts as to why this happened which have left this mystery unsolved still to this day. One tells the tale of a great storm that lifted the wall and placed it where it stands today. The second even more peculiar story involves the burial of an excommunicated man on the site of the church and that the wall moved itself to avoid having this individual buried inside its walls. There is a plaque placed on the wall which reads, “This wall by its pitch, tilt and position can be seen to have moved three feet from its foundation.” The wall stands at 19 feet high, 15 feet wide and three feet thick.

Irish Sky Garden, County Cork, Ireland

 James Turrell's Irish Sky Garden: A living sculpture carved into the Irish landscape, where the blue of the sky meets the green of the hills.

This fantastic feat of engineering and design is the brainchild of famed American artist and sculptor, James Turrell. Also known as the ‘Crater’, this beautiful garden allows visitors to take in all the wonders of the sky over Ireland without any impediments or distractions. Located within the grounds of Liss Ard Estate, this major land sculptor was completed in 1992 after being commissioned by the owner of the estate at the time, Veith Turske, a German art dealer. Turrell recommends that you should visit the sight in small groups with two people being the most ideal number. Visitors can lay down on the ‘Vault Purchase’ (stone plinth) which was designed to allow people the perfect position to take in the views of this unique experience.

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, County Antrim, Northern Ireland

This might be the perfect site for all the visitors who want to take a walk on the wild side while visiting Ireland. Immersed in the beautiful surroundings of Carrick-a-Rede, this rope bridge was first erected by salmon fishermen in 1755. Now it has taken a different role becoming somewhat of a challenge for those who visit. The bridge stands above a 75 feet deep (23 meters) chasm and gives views of the surrounding areas as you make your way across. The area is home to some unique wildlife like fulmars, kittywakes, guillemots and razorbills which makes it an ideal place to visit for any staunch wildlife enthusiast. Just make sure you know that if you go over the bridge the only way back is on the bridge again.

Dunmore Cave, County Kilkenny, Ireland

This limestone cave has been open to the public since the 1960’s and has been the site of archaeological expeditions since the 1800’s. This cave has a vast amount of passages and caverns that take up around 984 feet (300 meters) in length while you explore this underground wonder during a guided tour. The cave is home to some fantastic calcite formations that will dwarf the tallest of individuals. It is also said to be home to a major Viking battle in 928 CE which saw around 1,000 casualties and archaeologists have confirmed that there was Viking activity within the cave.

Kilmainham Gaol (Jail), County Dublin, Ireland

This is home to arguably some of the most significant events and major former Irish leaders in the history of Ireland. Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) first opened its doors to prisoners in 1796 before closing in 1924 and is synonymous with famous rebellion leaders like Robert Emmet, Charles Stewart Parnell, Pádraig Pearse and former President of Ireland Eamonn de Valera. After the 1916 Easter Rising the Irish leaders of the rebellion were sent to Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) where they were secretly tried, found guilty and sentenced to death by firing squad in the courtyard. In the 1960’s the prison began to be restored before allowing it to be open to the general public. It is a site steeped in Irish history and is a must see for both foreign visitors and the people of Ireland. A guided tour will allow you to get a sense of what it was like to be a prisoner there and see what conditions they had to endure.

Dunluce Castle, County Antrim, Northern Ireland

Dunluce Castle is one of the oldest standing landmarks of its kind in Ireland. Since being built in the 1500’s this castle has had a turbulent time being seized by different families. There are many tales associated with this castle with one being that the kitchen fell into the sea during a violent storm taking the lives of seven cooks. In modern times it has become associated with the HBO series Game of Thrones as the House of Greyjoy on the Iron Islands. With tremendous views in its immediate surroundings this is a must see.

Kylemore Abbey, County Galway, Ireland

Kylemore Abbey on the banks of the Dawros River

Kylemore Abbey is a world renowned boarding school situated in the beautiful backdrop of Connemara. It was first built in the late 1800’s by a wealthy businessman and politician named Mitchell Henry MP. His idea was to build an estate which would boast ‘all the innovations of the modern age’. In the 1920’s it became the home of Benedictine nuns who came here from Ypres, Belgium after their abbey was destroyed during World War 1. While it is still home to these Benedictine nun’s, tours are available to take in the wonderful views of the grounds.

O’Shea’s Irish Pub, County Kerry, Ireland

For all the Guinness lovers in the audience this is the hidden gem for you. In a Guinness advert in the mid-2000’s this little Irish pub played a significant part. Located near the Ring of Kerry in a corner of Valentia Island stands O’Shea’s Pub. The idea for the ad was to show that Guinness technicians will go above and beyond to make sure that the quality of Guinness in every pub is met with the same degree of care. The ad shows a Guinness technician driving around the Irish countryside to the tune of ‘Do you know the way to San Jose’. When he gets to O’Shea’s Pub he makes sure everything is in order and asks the barman does he know the way to San Jose, which the bartender replies, “Sure that’s the back of beyond.” Then the camera pulls out to show that pub is in the middle of nowhere. The only thing about this pub is it isn’t a pub at all. It was thought up by Guinness specifically for this advert but that hasn’t stopped people from visiting this pub and getting a picture with the ads slogan, “Next Pint, New York”. Unfortunately, you will need to bring your own pint.

If you have any suggestions for some hidden gems that people should visit in Ireland then let us know below.

* Originally published in 2017.

 

Kenny’s Bookstore in Galway go toe to toe with Amazon

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Family-owned business’ star on the ascent as books bounce back and team takes the helm

Galway city: On a jaunt up to Galway this week, I got an access-all-areas invite to one of Ireland’s most revered national treasures: Kenny’s Bookstore.

Back in the day, Kenny’s bookshop in the very heart of Galway, where the Kenny matriarch held court, was a must-visit item on any foray into the west.

But during the crash and with e-books becoming the fashion, the venerable family institution upped sticks and moved to a warehouse in the Liosbán Business Park on the outskirts of Galway.

Courtesy of Conor Kenny, one of a team of Kennys still at the helm, I was invited to pop into their bookshop and store to see for myself some of the one million books making up their voluminous stock.

For decades now, Kenny’s has also been known for its expertise in putting together valuable and rare collections of Irish material — often pamphlets, artists’ archives, or political collections — for universities at home and in the US. Additionally, Kenny’s, which boasts an art gallery, brought together the stunning collection of artworks relating to the Great Hunger which adorn the Museum of Ireland’s Great Hunger at Quinnipiac University in Connecticut, USA.

When your main competitor is Amazon, it helps to have a skill to fall back on, you might think, but in fact over recent times the Kenny star has been on the ascent again as books bounce back. When I visited, I saw books being boxed for dispatch to locations across the globe.

But a good bookshop is about more than just showcasing books. It’s also at the very heart of its community — as Kenny’s has been since its inception in 1940 — and remains to this day.

It’s worth checking out, online or in person on your next visit to Galway.

And I hear chatter about a Kenny’s BookClub. Sign me up!

Getting creative in Co. Leitrim!

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This year, government initiative Creative Ireland is highlighting some of the best projects, events, and initiatives that are bringing culture and the arts to the forefront in every Irish county and Co. Leitrim is no different.

They don’t call it Lovely Leitrim for nothing - from Lough Allen to its Atlantic coastline to the charming town of Carrick-on-Shannon, there’s so much to see and do. An impressive range of creatives has called Leitrim home, such as explorer and naturalist Thomas Heazle Parke, journalist Paul Williams, actor Patrick McGoohan, actor and playwright Donal O’Kelly, author John McGahern, comedian Katherine Lynch, and 19th-century poet John McDonald. 

The county today boasts a strong network of communities rich with artists, writers, actors, filmmakers, dancers and musicians, and one of the highest percentages of creative sector employment in the country.

The following events - part of the Creative Ireland counties initiatives and beyond - are real standouts in Leitrim’s bustling cultural calendar.

The Last Wilderness by Cecilia Darnell

An exhibition of the works of Swedish artist Cecilia Darnell takes place at The Dock in Carrick-on-Shannon June 2 - August 16, 2017, expanding upon her show at Galway City Arts Centre in March 2017. In addition to her stunning paintings of Scandinavian landscapes, the exhibition features an experimental film piece, shot on Super 8 film in the forest landscape at Bona, County Östergötland and The Old Theatre in the town Vadstena near where Danell is originally from.

Umble [Bumble] by Sarah Ellen Lundy

Weaving together a series of metaphorical meditations on the complex relations between humans and plant-life, including current environmental threats to the bee, Lundy’s exhibition activates an assemblage of everyday objects, moving images and the ephemeral performance of materials to challenge autonomy in the face of systemic and applied homogenization. A personal testament to the fragile life-forms that cohabit nature Lundy’s work draws inspiration and incorporates elements from diverse sources. Appearing between July 21 - August 12 at the Leitrim Sculpture Center.

Wild Words Children’s Book Festival

Photo: Facebook

The Wild Words Children’s Book Festival, which takes place in the lovely town of Carrick-on-Shannon between August 11 - 13, is a space for children and their families to celebrate and enjoy literature, to meet authors, and to encourage an interest in creative writing. Now in its fifth year, the festival offers readings, workshops, masterclasses, in addition to publishing winning entries of writing by teenagers from throughout Ireland. The talented young winners get to participate in an intensive master class program led by leading authors.

Film Development Project

As part of a new partnership, Sligo, Leitrim and Roscommon County Councils are coming together with filmmakers from the three counties with a view to enabling the film sector here to grow and develop.  Filmmakers and artists working with film who live in the three counties will contribute to research for the project, helping shape the thinking and range of supports that is hoped will grow the sector in the coming years

Iron Mountain Literature Festival

Arising from the John McGahern seminar which ran from 2007 for eight years, the Iron Mountain Literature Festival was established in 2016, reframed in a wider context involving writers, artists, and thinkers from many perspectives. The festival draws much of its motivation from the works and legacy of the legendary Leitrim-born writer John McGahern, combining panels, talks, readings and field trips which look to ideas central to and arising from an exploration of place, home, and identity.

The 2017 Festival, running on October 6 and 7 in Carrick-on Shannon, examines the role of culture in a time of crises of borders and migration and features Henry Glassie, Emeritus College Professor of Folklore at Indiana University Bloomington, poet Nuala Ní Dhomhnaill, Ireland Professor of Poetry Eiléan Ní Chuilleanáin, and many more.

Artist in Communities Program

The Artist in Communities Program will this year provide the opportunity for a community group in Leitrim to work with an artist on a specially designed project lasting 55 hours over the course of a number of months. The scheme is built on the idea of partnership. The artist and group work together to develop a lasting, memorable and enriching project for everyone involved.

Leitrim Library Winter Lecture Series

Leitrim Library Service will present a comprehensive program of lectures engaging leading academics, artists, writers, historians and thinkers covering topics ranging from heritage, the arts, the environment and the many facets of the creative sector. Check the event schedules for Leitrim libraries in the winter months.

Check out Co. Leitrim’s full culture and creativity plans here.

Is there an upcoming event in Co. Leitrim you think people should know about? Let us know in the comment section.

Places in Ireland that can change your life

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From Newgrange to Glendalough - attractions in Ireland that can genuinely leave you with a life-changing experience

Even though Ireland is relatively small, there's so much to see and do. If you're planning a trip and trying to prioritize, look no further than this list of stunning spots in Ireland, from the historic to the sublimely beautiful, that offer profound experiences.

1. Newgrange

Newgrange, County Meath, older than Stonehenge and the Egyptian Pyramids, illuminates with sunlight every winter solstice, but it's original use remains a mystery.

An amazing example of what mankind is capable of – and it was built 5,000 years ago!

The ancient temple is older than the pyramids and the 550 largest stones used in its construction had to be brought to the site from all around Ireland. It attracts more than 200,000 tourists a year and if you're one of the lucky few who wins tickets to be there for the Winter Solstice, it can definitely be life-changing experience

2. Kerry



Kerry isn't called 'The Kingdom' for no reason.

Rich in beautiful scenery and history, it's home to the highest mountain in Ireland, Carrantuohill, and climbing it is said to be an exhilarating experience. Not only that, but the county is also home to Fungie, the country's most famous dolphin who's about 25 years on the go. It certainly changed his life.

3. Knock



Miracles have happened here, and it's an important site of pilgrimage. 

4. Glendalough

Literally 'the glen of two lakes' Glendalough is an amazing glacial valley in Co. Wicklow.

The early medieval monastic settlement was founded in the 6th Century by St. Kevin. Although it was almost destroyed by English troops in the 1300s, Glendalough survived and thrived as a place of religious importance.

However, you don't have to be religious to enjoy visiting. Its biggest attraction is its natural beauty and peacefulness, which is no doubt what attracted priests and monks here in the first place.

5. Kilmainham Gaol



Kilmainham Gaol is a former prison located in Kilmainham, Dublin. Built in 1796, it's now-empty cells echo over one hundred years worth of tales from Ireland's struggle for Independence.

Many leading Irish rebels spent time in the jail, including Eamon de Valera and Charles Stewart Parnell. Some would never leave. The leaders of 1916 were among those to be executed on the prison grounds.

Visitors today are brought on a tour of the jail and the museum which was reopened to the public in the 1970s. We are given the chance to read some of the letters written by those held there, and the weight of history can definitely be a life changing experience.

6. The Aran Islands



A rare glimpse into old Ireland, the Aran Islands' beauty is the attraction for thousands of tourists every year.

The three islands of Inis Mór, Inis Oírr, and Inis Meáin provide an insight into Ireland's journey through time. One can find Iron Age huts, 14th Century castles, and cottages from the 1800s while staying in modern guesthouses.

The Aran Islands have served as inspiration for many great writers including James Joyce and John Millington Synge.

7. Derry

Derry was the UK City of Culture a few years ago.

The are many historically significant sites around the city and for those interested in the history of The Troubles, Derry is a place which is top of the list to visit.

8. Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking Festival



The Lisdoonvarna Festival in Co. Clare is one of Europe's largest matchmaking events. It lasts for the whole month of September and there have been matchmaking shenanigans in the town for over 150 years.

The current, fourth-generation matchmaker is Willie Daly, and if he sets you up with a lad or lassie than it definitely could change your life!

* Originally published in March 2014. 

A vision of Ireland like you’ve never seen it before

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Let these jaw-dropping views of Kilrush and the famous Cliffs of Moher take you up, up and away

During a spot of good weather in June 2014, Irish photographer Alan Magner recorded this video of a very picturesque Ireland. It reveals the true beauty of the west coast of Ireland and Co. Clare from a whole different angle, literally.

Watching the breathtaking drone shots coupled with a few outstanding time lapses, you can’t help but fall in love with the west coast watching this.

Let Magner’s jaw-dropping views of Lahinch, Loop Head, Kilrush, Bridges of Ross and the famous Cliffs of Moher take you up, up and away.

As if we needed further proof that Ireland is the most beautiful country?

* Originally published in 2014.


Ireland by the numbers: The facts and figures you thought you knew

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Population, size, average age and other top tidbits about the island of Ireland you never knew

Ireland’s Central Statistics Office (CSO) and the Northern Ireland Statistics and Research Agency (NISRA) has released a report titled “Census 2011 Ireland and Northern Ireland” giving comprehensive results from the island for the first time.

Here’s a breakdown of the top results and some other facts and figures that may surprise you.

Area:

Ireland is 32,595 sq miles (84,421 km²)

At its widest the island is about 174 mi (280 km). At its longest (north-south) it is 302 mi (486 km).

It has over 3,000 miles of coastline.

Population:

6.4 million in total.

This comprises 4.6 million people in the Republic of Ireland (72 percent) and 1.8 million in the North.

To put these figures into context consider the fact that New York City has a population of 8.337 million and London is home to 8.307 million.

The overall population density of Ireland is 78 persons per square kilometer.

Read more: Number of Irish Americans seven times larger than entire population of Ireland

Language:

The official languages are Irish and English but most of the population uses English. Irish is a compulsory subject in all schools that receive state funding.

Age:

The median age in Ireland is 34.

This is lower than any other European Union member state.

Religion:

Catholicism remains dominant at 84 percent.

Protestants and other Christians represented 42 percent of the population of Northern Ireland while Catholics accounted for 41 percent, with the remainder made up mainly of those with no religion (10%) or not stated (6.8%).

Marriage and divorce:

In Northern Ireland the number of single people has increased by 20 percent since 2001. While that figure in the Republic is up by 15 percent.

There were 56,900 separated and 78,000 divorced persons in Northern Ireland, representing 9.3 percent of those aged 15 and over, while the comparable figures for Ireland were 87,800 persons divorced and 116,200 separated which together accounted for 5.7 percent.

Households:

The predominant household structure in both jurisdictions is married couples with children (of any age), accounting for 32 percent of households in Ireland and 28 percent of those in Northern Ireland.

Cohabiting couples were more prevalent in Ireland, accounting for 7.7 percent of households compared with 5.5 percent of those in Northern Ireland.

Place of birth:

In Northern Ireland, 202,000 people, 11 percent of usual residents, were born outside the jurisdiction; 37,900 were born in Ireland, representing almost one fifth of the total.

In Ireland, in contrast, the 58,500 people born in Northern Ireland accounted for just 7.6 percent of the total 766,800 persons born outside Ireland, who in turn represented 17 percent of the population.

Industry:

The Wholesale and Retail sector employed the highest proportion of persons of all sectors in both Northern Ireland and Ireland, although rates in Northern Ireland (18 percent) exceeded those in Ireland (15 percent).

Human health and social work was the second most important sector, with 14 percent of persons in Northern Ireland and 11 percent in Ireland, followed by manufacturing, which accounted for 10 and 11 percent respectively.

Housing:

Terraced housing accounted for 25 percent of dwellings in Northern Ireland compared with 17 percent in Ireland, while the most striking difference between both jurisdictions was for non-private or social rented accommodation, which accounted for 15 percent of dwellings in Northern Ireland, compared with 8.7 percent in Ireland.

The vacancy rate in Ireland was 15 percent compared with 6.0 percent in Northern Ireland.

Sources: CSO, Reuters Factbox.

*Originally published in June 2014. 

WOW Air announces $152 flights between Ireland and four new US destinations

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Budget airline WOW Air has announced super cheap flights between Ireland and four new Midwest destinations. Flights start at $152.

Service between Detroit and Dublin will take off in April 2018 and the following month WOW's new services between Dublin and St Louis, Cleveland and Cincinnati will commence. In each case there is a layover at Keflavík Airport in Iceland.

“At WOW air, we are committed to our mission of offering our Irish passengers more affordable travel options to North America at the lowest fares," the airline’s CEO Skúli Mogensen said in a statement to the press.

Many WOW Air passengers flying to Ireland choose to break up the trip with a mini-break in Iceland at no additional cost and explore an island which shares a similar Viking heritage to the Emerald Isle.

Wow airlines CEO Skuli Morgensen

Currently the airline flies Irish passengers to 14 North American locations, including New York, Boston, Toronto, Montreal, Chicago, Miami and LA.

The airline launched a transatlantic service to Cork earlier this year to great fanfare but since then quietly announced it would be axing the route this fall after lower than expected takeup.

Read More: WOW announces $181 flights between Dublin and Chicago

 

Real reasons why American tourists love Ireland

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An “Irish American Mom” looks at why so many hold Ireland so dear to their hearts

I count among the millions of people worldwide, who simply love Ireland. My deep feelings of connection are understandable, since I was born in Dublin.

However, after living in America for over 20 years, I have come to realize that there are many who have never even set foot on Irish soil yet feel the same affinity for our little island.

Many reasons explain why we love Ireland. I suppose every tourist holds in their heart a very personal and special reason why they make the journey across the miles to visit the Emerald Isle.

And I am quite certain some visitors leave Ireland perplexed, unable to figure out what all this Irish, nostalgic hoopla is all about.

And so, in today’s post I thought I would explore the great big WHY.

Why do so many hold Ireland dear to their hearts?

I have browsed through numerous posts on the internet where reasons to love Ireland are eloquently listed. I found some focused too much on what I consider superficial reasons, such as the pubs and the Guinness.

Now don’t get me wrong, Guinness is a fine Irish product and its invention is plenty reason to admire Ireland and the Irish, but in my book, Ireland’s magic springs from a deeper, more spiritual place.

And so, without further ado, here are my top ten reasons, why I think tourists love Ireland.

1. Our own unique music

I must confess Irish music makes my heart swell with joy. Every time I hear the rhythmic beat of a reel or a jig, I take a deep breath, my insides do a little somersault, and my foot inevitably begins to tap. I don’t know if this is a reflexive expression of my Irish genes or just sheer appreciation for the vitality of this passionate music form. I truly believe Irish music is a deeply resonant and beautiful expression of our unique culture,

For a country as small as Ireland it’s amazing how far and wide our music has reached. Irish dancing classes are taught as far afield as China, which for me is evidence of the uplifting qualities of our tunes.

Most tourists to Ireland take time to enjoy at least one traditional Irish music session at some point on their itinerary. The moment a listener makes the vital decision to join in, magic happens.

By clapping those hands and tapping those toes, visitors experience the rich and intricate combinations of notes and rhythms, at a spiritual level. Irish music can simply stir the soul.

2. Festivals

Ireland is a land of festivals, especially during the summer months. With a little planning, tourists are sure to find a festival of interest celebrating everything from the arts, architecture, fashion, film, food, literature, music, theater, and much, much more.

I know you think I’ve lost my marbles by including festivals in this list. At first glance these festivals may appear to be tourist traps but that is far from the case.

Festivals are part of who we are as a people, part of the tapestry of our wonderful, cultural history. Our Celtic forefathers celebrated the seasons with four distinct festivals. Their social lives revolved around fairs and markets held during these carnivals.

In the 19th and 20th centuries, fairs and marts were held at regular intervals throughout the year and were highly anticipated by native Irish people. Dancing, drinking, and revelry accompanied the more mundane tasks of paying the rent and selling farm animals and produce. Coming together to connect and to celebrate is part of who we are as a people.

Irish festivals are all about interaction, where the depth and uniqueness of individual Irish characters are waiting to be discovered. Irish people seldom strive for commonality but revel in the diversity of their individuality. At an Irish festival you meet a cohort of characters unmatched anywhere in the world. Festival goers possess a love of stories, talk and music, a deep-seated wildness, and above all else, an affinity for fun, or what we Irish call "divilment."

3. A hundred thousand welcomes

“Céad míle fáilte” is one of the most loved Irish expressions worldwide and it literally means a hundred thousand welcomes. Irish people are very proud of the welcome they extend to visitors. Now, I hope I’m not painting a picture of smiling leprechauns greeting you with a canned “Top of the Morning” salutation at the airport.

No! Ireland’s welcome is more subtle. It revolves around a chat, a friendly nod, a reserved inquisitiveness. A lady I met on a plane when I was returning to America once told me:

“Ireland feels like a dear old friend.”

I love this description and I truly hope visitors feel welcomed home by their dear friend, Ireland.

4. Peace and tranquility

The moment I set foot on Irish soil, an overwhelming sense of calm and peace, overcomes me. I always think of Yeats’ poem “The Lake Isle of Inishfree.”

“And I shall have some peace there, for peace comes dropping slow,

Dropping from the veils of the morning to where the cricket sings;

There midnight’s all a-glimmer, and noon a purple glow,

And evening full of the linnet’s wings.”

Ireland offers true quietness for those who seek tranquility. I believe it is one of the best countries in the world to relax and unwind. Remote and romantic, Ireland offers a laid-back charm with a unique sense of place.

The sound of silence in rural Ireland is unparalleled. For me, it is a hymn to the surrounding landscape and magnificent scenery.

Even when the rain falls torrentially as is so apt to happen, it simply takes an evening sitting by an open fire for real warmth and peace to transform the soul. The scent of a turf fire, appreciated from the comfort of a welcoming chair, is simply magic.

5. History all around

Newgrange

In Ireland the old and the new co-mingle with grace. Our ancient past is evident nearly everywhere through our history, music, art, and architecture.

In America, 100 years is considered “old" but in Ireland, 100-year-old buildings are considered modern additions. In every small town and village visitors encounter sites much older than historical landmarks found in America.

Ireland is steeped in history and that history is evident everywhere you go. Ireland’s first known settlement began way back in 8,000 BC. Newgrange is older than the pyramids. The land boasts ancient castles, dolmens, burial tombs, arched bridges, round towers, and monastic ruins, dotted here and there throughout the countryside.

Preservation of our history is no accident. Reverence for ancient sites is inherent in some Irish souls. Farmers plough in circles around ancient monuments, afraid to disturb the memory of long lost ancestors. Museums are frequented by both young and old, eager and willing to learn and preserve our country’s fascinating past.

6. Folklore and stories

The leprechaun is the most recognizable characters from Irish legend but where did the story of the little green man begin?

Rest assured a story awaits you in Ireland. From tour guides to barmen, shop keepers to farmers, everyone treasures stories of our recent history and distant past. Ireland’s charm is wrapped in myths and legends.

Our stories are filled with heroic warriors, deadly goddesses and trouble-making supernatural creatures. Folk tales from mainland Europe focus more on fairy godmothers, talking animals and, of course, wicked stepmothers. A few colleens with a severe lack of maternal instinct also feature in Irish myths, but in contrast to the Hans Christian Anderson variety of fairy tale, the Irish ones are filled with romance and tragedy, ghosts and other worldly beings.

To tell you the truth, some of these tales would frighten the life out of a child today. But these stories are part of who we are and feature regularly on tourist trails.

Once when we visited Donegal, we took a boat cruise on Dunlewey Lake. The tour guide told stories of all the mythical creatures and ghosts surrounding the lake. My American children were enthralled.

No banal, politically-correct tales to be heard in Ireland but in their stead thrilling sagas of ancient warriors, saints, sinners, and lingering spirits.

Who cannot love this superstitious land?

7. The coast and the islands

Ireland may be a small country but as an island she boasts a great expanse of rugged beauty along her winding and sometimes treacherous coastline. I grew up on the coast with views of Dublin Bay at the end of our road. The sound of waves and howling winds were part of my childhood. Living in Kentucky, I miss the sea, windswept gales, Atlantic sunsets, and the sheer beauty of Ireland’s coastline.

From Howth to the Giant’s Causeway, Malin Head to Mizen Head, the Cliffs of Moher and all the wonderful spots along the Wild Atlantic Way I truly believe this island’s magnificent coastline is one of its finest attributes.

8. The scenery

 

During the many years I have lived in America, I have often been asked “Is Ireland as beautiful as it seems in photos?”

And the answer to this question is a simple and resounding “yes”.

To be honest, Ireland’s scenery must be seen to be believed. It is even more beautiful than it appears in any photo or postcard. No image does Ireland justice. Even cloudy skies coordinate magnificently with mythical stones and ancient ruins.

When the sun doesn’t cooperate Ireland’s beauty still shines. Around every twist and turn of Ireland’s winding roads awaits yet another new reason to smile.

9. Irish food

I make no apologies for Irish food. Traditional Irish food is hearty and wholesome, comforting and filling.

Irish dishes provide healthy helpings of meat, oodles of veggies and, of course, the pride of every Irish mother’s table, potatoes. After a spoonful of Irish stew, or a warming bowl of potato and leek soup, it will be easy to understand why I rate Irish food so highly.

My advice for tourists is to dig into a plate of bacon and cabbage, savor our brown bread, and treat yourself to a full Irish breakfast. You’ll leave Ireland understanding how simple, wholesome food feeds the soul.

10. Irish pride

And last, but not least, comes Irish pride. We Irish live and breathe our heritage. From a very young age, we learn our history through myth and legend. For centuries we clung to our culture, even when our conquerors tried to strip us of our heritage. This Irish pride has been carried by generations to the four corners of the world.

But when you visit Ireland you will learn the subtle differences in our heritage and how our cultural inheritance changes from county to county. A tourist’s experience in the Burren in County Clare is vastly different from the memories created in County Donegal, but everywhere you go on this little island, you will be enthralled by the pride people feel in their local village, town, and county.

History and heritage survive, because Irish people choose not only to remember the past but to practice old traditions with pride.

And so I hope this little list, will help you understand why you may already love Ireland or if you plan to visit the Emerald Isle in the near future it will help you understand you too may be at risk of falling in love with Ireland.

If you think of another reason to love Ireland, why not join in our discussion in the comment section, below.

Slán agus beannacht leat!

(Goodbye and blessings)

Irish American Mom.

* Mairead Geary came to America for one year 20 years ago. She now lives with her husband and children in Kentucky and is proud to be an American citizen. Read more on her blog here.

* Originally published in October 2014. 

Getting Creative in Fingal!

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This year government initiative Creative Ireland is highlighting some of the best projects, events, and initiatives that are bringing culture and the arts to the forefront in every Irish county and Fingal, Co. Dublin, is no different.

With over a 50-miles coastline of natural beauty, waterways, landscape, and wildlife, the county has strong horticultural, agricultural, and fishing traditions and enjoys a rich cultural heritage of local history, music and folklore that adds massively to its strong history of creativity.

Here are some of the best events and long-term initiatives currently promoting creativity you should know about in Fingal:

 

The Creative Fingal Fund

Great Creative in Fingal with Creative Ireland.

As part of the Creative Fingal Program, Fingal County Council will support individuals and groups to develop initiatives that support culture and creativity in the community. The scheme will open for applications in late May 2017 and during 2017, €20,000 ($23,00) will be made available to fund this partnership approach spanning the county

 

Buried in Fingal

A website will be developed containing scans and indexes of all burial records for the 33 burial grounds for which Fingal County Council is responsible, mostly starting in the early 20th century.

This will include plot/graveyard maps, where available, as well as historical details of each burial ground including date of opening earliest recorded headstone, examples of epitaphs, photographs of each burial ground and details of locations (GPS) and directions for how to get there.

Swords Castle: Digging History

Swords Castle  

The third year of this innovative community archaeology project at Swords Castle. The project facilitates the local community in engaging in archaeological discovery and in telling the story of this National Monument in the heart of Swords. Archaeology is about people in the past, and community is about people in the present. This is an ideal opportunity for us to uncover the mysteries of the past. Swords Castle, August 19 - September 9, 2017.

Room 13 Inquiry

Room 13 Inquiry is a collaborative art education program that assists schools in Fingal to investigate the concept of hosting an art studio for their students. It is inspired by the renowned Room 13 International project and includes the provision of dedicated art studio space and an artist-in-residence in each school. 

Fingal Fleadh Reunion  

Dervish

Fifteen traditional Irish music bands will play at the Fingal Fleadh Reunion on Saturday, September 16, and Sunday, September 17, 2017, in Swords Castle and along the Main Street, Swords. The headline act performing on the Main Street is Dervish. There will also be a stage in Swords Castle, with the Kilfenora Céilí Band playing. Throughout both days other acts will perform in locations along the Main Street and in local public houses.

The Hide Sculpture

The Hide Scuplture. Image: Facebook/The Hide Project.

The Hide Sculpture, situated on a former landfill site is a large-scale permanent sculpture and adjacent to the Rogerstown Estuary. This work of art provides a service to the visitor as a fully-functioning observation point for viewing the estuary’s roosting birds. It will function as a space for conversation, contemplation, education, and exploration into the world of art, nature and politics. 

Thomas Ashe Commemoration

Thomas Ashe

As part of Ireland’s Decade of Centenaries, Fingal County Council will commemorate the hundred-year anniversary of the death of Thomas Ashe, Commandant of the 5th Battalion, Fingal Brigade who fought in the Battle of Ashbourne in 1916. The Council will support the commissioning of a sculpture of Thomas Ashe in Lusk, and Local Studies and Archives will mount an exhibition about Thomas Ashe. There will be a screening in Lusk of “Fingal’s Finest”, a film produced. September 2017.

Library STEAM Program

Young people across Fingal will have access to the Library STEAM (Science, Technology, Engineering, Art, and Maths) Program, which includes Scratch workshops, Stop Go Motion workshops, coding and 3D printing sessions, Bricks for Kids Lego, arts and crafts, film clubs, and photographic workshops and exhibitions. Throughout 2017.

Swords Summer Festival

Storytelling in Swords Castle. Image: Creative Ireland.

A family fun event for the whole family. Free family entertainment as well as music, drama, history, and of the Fingal 10K with more than 4000 runners. The 2017 Festival took place at Swords Castle, July 20 - 23 - keep an eye out for information on 2018!

Fingal Film Fest

A highlight of the cultural calendar in Fingal! This year's festival featured the works of established and up and coming filmmakers alike, and took place August 11-13 at Swords Castle. Check back for updated on the 2018 festival. 

Check out Fingal’s full culture and creativity plans here.

Is there an upcoming event in Fingal you think people should know about? Tell us in the comment section.

Travel through the land of Game of Thrones® in Northern Ireland

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Despite all the drama and danger swirling in 'Game of Thrones,' it’s very good to be back in Westeros, the fictional realm of The Seven Kingdoms where much of George R.R. Martin’s series takes place.

What fans longing to enter the world of 'Game of Thrones' – to stake their claim to Winterfell, walk the shores of the Dornish coast, or explore the Dothraki Grasslands – might not realize is that it’s possible to visit the Seven Kingdoms with only one stamp on your passport, as a great deal of the HBO series is filmed in Northern Ireland.

What’s more, the landscape and geography of the island of Ireland also served as an inspiration for Martin when he was mapping out his world. He has revealed that Westeros is in fact based on an upside-down map of Britain and Ireland, with major Irish cities sharing their locations with famous Westeros landmarks: King’s Landing as Galway, Donegal Bay as the Sea of Dorne, Belfast as Old Town and Dublin as Casterly Rock.

In honor of the end of 'GOT' Season 7, here are seven wondrous Westeros locations you have to visit in Northern Ireland.

The King’s Road (The Dark Hedges, Ballymoney, Co. Antrim)

The Dark Hedges. Photo: Arthur Ward

One of the most iconic settings of 'Game of Thrones,' The King’s Road is the longest road in the Seven Kingdoms, running from the Wall at Castle Black all the way to King’s Landing. The real-life setting of the road is the mysterious Dark Hedges of Gracehill House in Ballymoney, Co. Antrim.   

The Kings Road in Game of Thrones. Photo: HBO

The Stuart family planted the stunning avenue of beech trees in the 1700s as the grand entryway to their estate. They are one of the most frequently photographed attractions in Northern Ireland, and conveniently located right off the beautiful Causeway Coastal Route, just a 20-minute drive from the otherworldly Giants Causeway.

The Coast of Dorne (Portstewart Strand, Co. Derry)

Portstewart Strand. Photo: Chris Hill

Less than 20 miles from the Dark Hedges, you’ll find yourself in a different part of Westeros entirely! The sandy beaches of Portstewart in Co. Derry is the filming location for the coast of the Dorne, the southern-most kingdom of Westeros, home to the House of Martell and the Sandsnakes. It’s where Jamie Lannister and Bronn set foot on land during their mission to rescue the Princess Myrella. 

Coast of Dorne in Game of Thrones. Photo: HBO

Though it’s a sight to behold at any time of the year, Portstewart is, perhaps, best enjoyed in the summer months as it’s a blue flag beach – ideal for swimming, strolling and sunbathing.

The Haunted Forest (Tollymore Forest Park, Co. Down)

Tollymore Forest Park. Photo: Chris Hill

While it has appeared as a number of different settings throughout 'Game of Thrones' (the forest where the Stark family discovers the direwolf pups in the first episode; the trees where Ramsay Bolton hunts Theon Greyjoy), Tollymore Forest Park is perhaps most recognizable (and most terrifying!) as The Haunted Forest, where the evil White Walkers begin their long but seemingly unstoppable march to bring winter to the world of men once again.

The Haunted Forest in Game of Thrones. Photo: HBO

In reality, Tollymore Forest Park is one of the most beautiful forests in all of Northern Ireland, and only 33 miles south of Belfast. Six hundred acres of ancient redwood trees and crumbling gothic ruins await you.

The Dothraki Grasslands and Sea (Shillanavogy Valley, Sleamish, Co. Antrim and Binevenagh Mountain, Co. Derry)

Shillanavogy Valley, beneath Sleamish. Photo: Brian Morrison

Northern Ireland manages to contain parts of the kingdom of Essos, too! Unleash your inner khaleesi (queen, for those not familiar with the Dothraki language) in these settings for the Dothraki Sea, home to the nomadic, equestrian-centric society.

Binevenagh at sunset. Photo: Matthew Woodhouse

The Shillanavogy Valley, in the shadow of Sleamish Mountain in Co. Antrim, is one such setting, as is the majestic Binevenagh Mountain in Co. Derry which boasts a mountain walk, a scenic route, and gorgeous views of Lough Foyle. 

Crossing the Dothraki grasslands in Game of Thrones. Photo: HBO

Sleamish is just a few miles east of the lovely town of Ballymena (hometown of Liam Neeson), and Binevenagh is accessible via the Binevenagh Scenic Route, a quick detour from the Causeway Coastal Route.

Winterfell (Castle Ward and Demesne, Strangford, Co. Down)

Castle Ward, the old castle. Photo: Ardfern/Creative Commons

This might just be the holy grail for 'Game of Thrones' fans. Castle Ward’s historic farmyard has served as the setting for the exterior scenes of Winterfell, the rightful home of the Stark family, oft usurped by others. The grounds are also where Robb Stark’s army camps.

Photo: HBO

The 18th-century property – a National Trust site – has fully embraced its modern claim to fame, offering visitors the chance to live a full 'Game of Thrones' experience, dressing up in character and practicing archery in the very spot where Robb, Bran Stark and Jon Snow do in the series. The castle is a mere 7 miles from Downpatrick, where St. Patrick is believed to be buried at Down Cathedral.

The Iron Islands (Ballintoy Harbor, Co. Antrim)

Ballintoy Harbor. Photo: Tourism Ireland

Ballintoy Harbor in Co. Antrim has been used as the location for Pyke, the seat of power of the Iron Islands, the kingdom of the Ironborn that splintered from Westeros. It’s where Theon first meets his sister, Yara Greyjoy.

The Iron Islands in Game of Thrones. Photo: HBO

Ballintoy is a stunning raised beach, connected to the historic village of Ballintoy. There are enticing attractions aplenty nearby, including Northern Ireland’s famous Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, which is less than a 10-minute drive away.

Bay of Dragons/Slaver’s Bay, and Renly’s Camp (Murlough Bay, Co. Antrim)

Murlough Bay. Photo: Matthew Woodhouse

Another gorgeous example of one Northern Ireland location doubling as a Westeros and Essos spot. The beautiful Murlough Bay has been the scene of the Bay of Dragons – formerly known as Slaver’s Bay – and the setting for Renly Baratheon’s camp in the second season of 'Game of Thrones.'

Renly's Camp in Game of Thrones. Photo: HBO

Murlough Bay, a must-see along the Causeway Coastal Route, boasts unparalleled views of Rathlin Island and, on an especially clear day, even the Mull of Kintyre in Scotland.

Watch this video to see even more Game of Thrones filming locations you can visit in Northern Ireland:

Which 'Game of Thrones' location would you most like to visit? Are there any other settings you’d like to know the real Northern Ireland locations of? Let us know in the comment section.

This post is proudly produced in partnership with Tourism Ireland. Find out more on Ireland.com

*Originally published in July 2017

Getting Creative in County Laois!

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This year, government initiative Creative Ireland is highlighting some of the best projects, events, and initiatives that are bringing culture and the arts to the forefront in every Irish county and Co. Laois is no different.

Laois already boasts a robust arts and library infrastructure which includes such flagship institutions as the Dunamaise Arts Centre - the county’s primary multi-disciplinary performance space - the Laois Arthouse, and the Laois School of Music.

We especially recommend these upcoming events, which are a part of the Creative Ireland county initiatives and beyond, as well as some fantastic ongoing projects that constantly promote creativity in the county. For just a taster of what's to come in Co. Laois, take a look at the fantastic evening in Dunamaise Arts Center for Cruinniú na Cásca. 

 

County Archive Programme

This year, Co. Laois library service will focus on the cultural heritage of the county with talks on genealogy and family history. Family History days will be held in branch libraries with free access to all, and talks on folklore, Laois customs, and changing cultures will also be held. 

 

Pollinator Multidisciplinary Art Commission

In 2017, Laois County Council is working in partnership with Offaly County Council to invite artists of any discipline to respond with a project proposal to explore and bring pollination to the wider public through art as part of the Council’s response to the All Ireland Pollinator Programme 2015-20. 

Laois School of Music

Laois School of Music provides high-quality tuition across a range of instruments and is recognized as a Centre of Excellence for music tuition for Laois and surrounding areas. The School of Music has over 300 students in its evening classes with 14 part-time specialized tutors. There is a thriving orchestral program with up to 60 members that make up the LSM Youth Orchestra who have worked on large events such as the Music Generation Laois New Works Series.

The Electric Picnic

Photo: Wikimedia Commons

You wouldn’t want to miss out on the biggest music festival in Ireland, would you? Electric Picnic runs September 1 - 2 at Stradbally Hall, Stradbally Co. Laois. The massive three-day event features headliners like Sigur Ros, Florence and the Machine, The Cure, Beck and LCD Soundsystem.

 

Knock Threshing Festival 

A parade of steam engines, vintage tractors and cars gather in the threshing field at Knock on September 9 and 10, where a great day out is planned for young and old. There's something for everyone - various displays, demonstrations, crafts and cooking from times past, vintage cars and farm machinery, steam threshing displays, wood cutting, farrier, butter making, crafts, photographs and memorabilia.

Digitization program

Laois County Council will this year commence the digitization of Laois County Council archives to include records of Portlaoise Town Council, Laois County Council, Workhouse records and the Helen Roe Archive.

Laois Culture Night

Culture Night is an annual all-island public event that celebrates culture, creativity, and the arts. Special and unique events and workshops are specifically programmed at participating locations and everything is available free of charge. The full program will be announced in August, so keep an eye out! September 22, 2017.

Spoken Word Project

Laois County Council, in partnership with the Arts Council of Ireland and Creative Ireland, will host a Spoken Word Residency. The target group for this project is young people, aged 12 to 20 years. Spoken Word is an increasingly popular performance art that many young people use as an outlet for self-expression.

Portlaoise Halloween Howls Festival

Instead of shrieking with fear for Halloween, how about screaming with laughter at the Halloween Howls Festival in Portlaoise October 27 - 31? Past years have included sets by David O'Doherty, Colm O'Regan, Al Porter, and Alison Spittle. 

Ballinakill Vintage & Classic Car Show

Entertainment and skills exhibitions will run throughout the day along with a larger autojumble area in this bright and spacious venue at Laois Shopping Centre. This show now attracts visitors, traders and exhibitors from all over Ireland. Run by the Ballinakill Vintage & Classic Owners Club, October 27. 

Tionól: Harps & Pipes

An annual festival of harps and pipes held November 3 - 5 in Co. Laois by Music Generation Ireland. Especially for 2017, Music Generation Laois will commission a composer to create a suite of music for harp orchestra, in collaboration with young harpists from the Music Generation Laois Trad program, to premiere at the festival.

James Fintan Lalor Autumn School 

Photo: Wikimedia Commons

The annual James Fintan Lalor School takes places in Portlaoise each year to honor the writings of Laois-born writer and patriot, James Fintan Lalor, who also gives his name to a street in Portlaoise. In 2017, the School, which will be run by Laois Heritage Society with the support of Laois County Council and will take place in November.

Laois Walks Festival

The Laois Walks Festival features over twenty walks along numerous woodland, mountain, bog, canal and minor road routes. The Laois Walks Festival runs for the full month of July and takes in 20 walks. This is a great opportunity to get outdoors and to become more familiar with the wonderful range of walks that Laois has to offer. Look out for more in 2018! 

National Steam Rally

Photo: Irish Steam Preservation Society Facebook

The National Steam Rally is an utterly unique event, bringing the very best in steam and vintage vehicles to the grounds of Stradbally Hall in Co. Laois August 6 and 7. Steam engine shows, tractor pulls, steam train rides, musical performances, trade stands, a carnival and more, hosted by the Irish Steam Preservation Society. The 2017 rally was a resounding success, and 2018 will be sure to impress, too. 

Check out Co. Laois' full culture and creativity plans here.

Is there an upcoming event in Co. Laois you think people should know about? Tell us in the comment section.

Buzzing Belfast is learning to leave its troubles behind

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It is a measure of how much Belfast still has to change that veteran taxi driver Paul Mac an Airchinnigh admits there are huge swathes of the city he knows nothing about even though he has driven a cab here for many years.

Most of the customers Paul picks up from his city center depot are based in the nationalist areas of West Belfast and they have no desire or need to cross the city to the Loyalist districts to the north and east of the city.

Paul (60) is no ordinary cab driver. He grew up on the Falls Road when hundreds of British soldiers used to patrol streets, which were dominated by military bases and lookout posts. He joined the IRA as a teenager at the height of ‘The Troubles’ and spent years as a political prisoner.

Paul Mac an Airchinnigh talks to a tour about the Bobby Sands mural. Photo: Ciaran Tierney

He knew nine of the ten men who lost their lives in the 1981 hunger strike at the notorious Maze Prison. He admits that he has no Protestant friends, although thankfully his two daughters – both in their 20s – have managed to cross that divide thanks to the improved social life brought about by the Good Friday Agreement in 1998.

Young people are mixing more in pubs and dance clubs but, as a former Republican prisoner, Paul would still feel uncomfortable about going for a pint just a few hundred meters away on the Loyalist Shankill Road.

Paul runs fascinating three-hour walking tours of the Falls Road these days, where tourists from all over the world learn about The Troubles and how difficult life was growing up in the predominantly Catholic part of the city.

Read More: How Belfast emerged from The Troubles much changed and strangely vibrant

“This is my truth, the story of Republican West Belfast, and you would get a completely different version of the truth if you talk to the people down there,” he tells our small group of four, pointing towards the Peace Wall between the Falls and Shankill, on a blustery weekday morning.

Paul is one of the founders of Coiste Irish Political Tours, a West Belfast organization run by former political prisoners which provides visitors with an unashamedly Republican guide to the conflict which scarred this area for 35 years.

He tells tourists, who are mostly from Australia and mainland Europe, about the Provisional IRA’s “war” with the British Army after the Catholic minority rose up in search of equal rights in Northern Ireland in the late 1960s.

The black taxi tours of Belfast’s trouble spots have become hugely popular in recent years, but Paul’s walking tour gives you an even greater grasp of how much the people of West Belfast felt they were living under siege.

Visitors are amazed by the quality of the striking murals on both sides of the wall, as Loyalist ex-prisoners also bring visitors on walking tours on the other side of the wall.

“A lot of people were doing the black taxi tours and a lot of the taxi drivers were telling the people complete and utter nonsense. No reflection on all the taxi drivers who do the tours, just some of them,” he tells me.

“And I was saying to myself that if I was a tourist I’d rather speak to somebody who was part of the conflict rather than somebody who heard stories from somebody in a pub or an old granny or something like that there.”

Paul says that Coiste was set up to provide ex-prisoners with employment and housing in the wake of the Good Friday Agreement in 1998. He enjoys the guided walks so much that he would love to give up the taxi-driving in order to do them full-time.

“Basically, the tours are about education. People come here with misconceptions about what the conflict was all about. They think it’s all just about Catholics and Protestants,” he tells me.

“There are so many different narratives to the conflict. You have the British narrative, the Unionist narrative, and the narrative which is most misrepresented, which is the Republican narrative. To me, as an ex-Republican prisoner, it’s important to tell our message about what the conflict was about.

“It’s up to people to take what they want out of the tours, but we are giving them a different perspective from what they have been given through the mainstream media through the years. That’s why our tours are important.”

A mural to the victims of the Troubles. Photo: Ciaran Tierney

People who've known Paul for years are surprised to see him escort tourists around the Falls Road, because he used to be known as a quiet and reserved man. But he feels it’s important to tell the story of his community and how the lives of so many were blighted by violence throughout The Troubles.

The beautifully painted murals tell the stories of hunger striker Bobby Sands, who was elected to the British Parliament in 1981; human rights lawyer Pat Finucane, who was murdered by a Loyalist death squad in 1989; and dozens of ordinary people who lost their lives in the conflict including teenagers killed by plastic bullets.

Paul quickly builds up a rapport with our small group as we tour the area at a leisurely pace, but he is keen to tell us why so many people supported the Provisional IRA when Northern Ireland erupted into violence in the late 1960s.

He has plenty of personal tales of youthful adventures, too, such as the night a British soldier pointed a gun at him when he tried to break into a teenage disco, without paying, at just 15 years of age.

Our tour ends at the Milltown Cemetery, scene of two of the worst atrocities of The Troubles, when Loyalist gunman Michael Stone attacked mourners at an IRA funeral and, days later, a group of mourners set upon two British soldiers when they drove into the middle of the funeral of one of Stone’s victims.

Mac an Airchinnigh’s vivid recollection of those awful days leaves our small group of tourists in no doubt that life has changed utterly for the better thanks to the peace process of the past two decades.

It was the killings at Milltown Cemetery which prompted Belfast-based journalist Una Murphy to leave her home city in 1988, as she felt she could not bring up her young family in such a violent and divided place.

Una spent years away from Belfast, in Dublin, Cork, and Cardiff, and laughs now as she recalls the sense of wonder in her mother’s voice after she rang her down in Cork to report that two Japanese tourists had been in the city center in 1996.

Read More: Belfast city's top 10 tourist attractions

“The phone rang and my mother was in awe, she said she had just seen two Japanese people with cameras outside City Hall,” recalls Una, with a smile. “In those days, tourists never came to Belfast.

“I came back to Belfast around the year 2000. It has taken a few years, but you can really notice the difference now. It’s normal to see so many tourists walking around the city center and we have had more cruise ships than ever in the harbor this year. During The Troubles, nobody really wanted to come here.”

Prior to 1998, and even for a few years after the peace process, the city center was deserted after 7pm every evening. People felt it was not safe to be out at night outside their own local neighborhoods.

Nowadays, tourists from all over the world mix with locals in city center bars, restaurants, and concert venues. There is a real sense of optimism and a multi-cultural vibe in the air.

Una arranges to meet me in the Sunflower Bar, north of the city center. The pub has become a poignant symbol of a changing Belfast. Three people lost their lives here, when the place was riddled with bullets in a sectarian attack.

Some Belfast humour on the gable wall of the Sunflower Bar. Photo: Ciaran Tierney

Today the bar, under new management, welcomes people of all creeds and nationalities. People come to the Sunflower for the wonderful music, or the pizzas on offer in the spacious beer garden, and nobody cares if you are a Protestant, Catholic, or dissenter.

With uileann pipes playing away in the background, a small group from Chile tell me they were spending an entire week in Belfast just because of the city’s thriving traditional music scene.

Across the river, the Titanic Quarter is one of the most vibrant tourist attractions in the whole of Europe. Visitors from all over the world spend up to four hours at the nine interactive galleries at the shipyard where the ill-fated passenger liner came to life before hitting an iceberg on her maiden voyage in 1912.

The exhibition is about so much more than one liner, as it looks at the history of Belfast City and the story of emigration in the 19th and 20th centuries, when so many Irish people sailed across the Atlantic to begin new lives in North America.

The Titanic Quarter, booming with life on the eastern banks of the Lagan. Photo: Ciaran Tierney

Looking around the massive, custom-built galleries, buzzing with so many visitors on a summer’s afternoon, it is hard to believe that tourists were such a strange curiosity to locals in Belfast as recently as two decades ago.

The tower blocks, military bases, and observation posts have been consigned to history, and booming Belfast – with its sad but colorful history and gorgeous nearby coastline – should certainly be on your ‘to do’ list if you are lucky enough to be visiting Ireland this year.

It’s now a brilliant place to visit, after so many years of turmoil and pain.

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Ciaran Tierney is a journalist, blogger, and travel writer, based in Galway, Ireland. You can find his Facebook page here


Deserted Blasket Island comes to life for this unique summer school

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For a few short days the island will once again ring with the sound of laughter and the area’s native Irish language

The Great Blasket Island, deserted over 60 years ago, will come alive again this September when it hosts a unique summer school.

For much of the past 60 years the six Blasket islands, which are jut a few miles off the Dingle Peninsula on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, have been left alone for wildlife.

Now, for a few short days, the island will once again ring with the sound of laughter and the area’s native Irish language.

Dúisigh do Dhúchas (Awaken your Heritage) is organizing a retreat on the island from September 8-11 which will allow visitors to relax in one of the most beautiful and unspoilt parts of Ireland.

Participants can avail of yoga, hurling, poetry-writing classes, excursions to forage for wild food and birdwatching all through the Irish language.

A standard ticket cost $270 and organizers say the experience will, “awaken your heritage through cultural, practical and spiritual activities” and will suit anyone with a basic level of Irish.

Promo shot for Dúisigh do Dhúchas (Awaken your Heritage).

Nowadays the island is a conservation area, famed for its teeming bird-life and thousand-strong population of seals, but for many the Great Blasket is best known for its writers; no single parish in Ireland added more to the canon of Gaelic literature than the Great Blasket.

But in 1953 this unique community was extinguished for good when each and every islander was rowed ashore and given keys to new houses on the mainland.

Life on the island had become increasingly unsustainable: where once 176  hardy souls scratched a living from the land and the surrounding seas by 1953 that number had dwindled to 21.

The twin reasons were remoteness and the ancient Irish curse of emigration. Between 1930 and the evacuation two decades later only two weddings had taken place on the island and in 1941 the Great Blasket’s school shuttered for good.

In 1947 ten days of severe weather left the island cut off from the mainland, the whipping wind preventing even basic supplies from reaching them. A young man called Seáinín Ó Ceárna contracted meningitis and he passed away before a doctor could reach him to treat him or a priest could arrive to administer last rites.

For many islanders that was the final straw. Most were afraid they'd meet the same fate as Ó Ceárna and when the Government offered them new homes and land they accepted.

The last Blasket islander, Micheál Ó Ceárna (brother of Seáinín) immigrated to Springfield, Massachusetts where he died in 2015 at the age of 94.

He’d left the island for America in 1948 but returned frequently to visit.

"It's the most beautiful place on Earth, but the best thing about it was the people. We had no court, no doctor, no nurse and no priest, but we didn't need them, because we had the best community you could imagine," he told IrishCentral on one such occasion.

Today memories of the islanders are kept alive by Ionad an Bhlascaoid Mhóir – The Blasket Centre in nearby Dún Chaoin. Visitors learn through photographs, videos and extracts from the islanders’ books about their lives on the periphery of Europe.

Here's a short documentary on the last Blasket Islander, made in 2013:

$333 round trip - Norwegian Air fares transforming Ireland to New York routes

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The start of something beautiful on a Norwegian Air flight from Belfast to Newburgh, NY for just $333

It sounds like the start of a comic-hall joke – “I took a Norwegian to New York for the weekend” – but in fact it may be the beginning of a wonderful relationship between Belfast and Newburgh, NY.

For last week, I tested (on my own dime) the new Norwegian airlines Belfast-New York flight which at $333 for my return ticket came in at just over one third of the United or Aer Lingus Dublin-New York flight prices I searched.

Was the money saved worth the inconvenience of touching down 65 miles north of Manhattan? Yes…but teething problems need sorted.

Indeed, so compelling is the price that I’ve now emailed all our pals in Boston and New York considering coming to the Belfast International Homecoming from October 4-6 to alert them to the price of a return ticket: $275 (£213, €230).

To get the bargain basement price with Norwegian, there are a few rules of the ‘road’: take hand luggage only, bring a sandwich instead of eating the airline fodder and book early: two Derry “wans” on my flight had paid just $223 return.

The fun really starts when you land: you can get from Stewart International Airport in the town of Newburgh to Manhattan by bus shuttle for $20 or take the, I kid you not, Leprechaun Bus Shuttle to the train station in nearby Beacon for a single dollar. From there, the off-peak train to Grand Central Station cost $17 and takes about one hour twenty minutes. That’s how I rolled.

As I was staying in that capital of all things Irish in the Big Apple, Fitzpatrick’s Grand Central, I basically fell out of the train at journey’s end and into bed.

The flight itself was hassle-free and I had two empty seats beside me which may be linked to a lack of demand or air flight regulations which limit the number of seats to be sold — for now — to just 145 on a 195-seater jet. There is no visa pre-clearance at Belfast but getting admitted to the US took just minutes — and the US Customs and Border Protection officers were smiling, a first for me!

So far, so good.

The journey back wasn’t just as incident-free. On emerging from the train at Beacon on Friday night, our friends in the Leprechaun shuttle had gone to ground. Two other shuttle buses, again charging just one dollar, were there but neither was going to the airport. Instead, we were dropped at a bus station close to the airport and took a $10 Uber ride to Stewart.

You haven’t heard of Stewart International Airport for a reason: it’s a sleepy part of the world. But at the outlets there, it’s like Christmas with Norwegian’s international travelers packing into its one outlet — where, unfortunately, someone has forgotten to tell management to increase the number of staff. Cue long lines.

The flight home was perfect, mind you. In fact, Captain Murphy whisked us across the Atlantic in double-time. Our ticket said we would arrive in Belfast at 9:45am. In fact, he touched down around 8:30am. Looked like no-one called ahead, however, as we sat in the plane for just over 30 minutes while we waited for an engineer to link the airbridge to the plane.

Not the greatest welcome to Ireland for the American visitors on board but, like me, I suspect they figure it goes with the territory when the return airfare works out cheaper than the price of a one-way train journey from Boston to Washington DC (when I last looked, you could catch the 5:05am for $331).

Ireland's last experience with the Vikings wasn’t one we remember fondly but, with a little work, this Norwegian route from Belfast to New York could blossom into the transatlantic budget airline revolution Belfast has been waiting for. Aer Lingus certainly aren’t underestimating the threat: in labor court papers this week, they refused to up staff wages as they said it would damage their ability to compete with Norwegian, which is another way of saying they know they will have to drop prices – and soon. And that, for all of us who want to see more connections across the Atlantic, can only be a good thing.

Wheels up!

Getting Creative in County Limerick!

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This year, government initiative Creative Ireland is highlighting some of the best projects, events, and initiatives that are bringing culture and the arts to the forefront in every Irish county and Co. Limerick is no different.

Celebrating the urban and the rural, Limerick is a county with a high international profile and connection with its communities and sense of itself that have all been formed through its upsurge in cultural activity. A dynamic force on Ireland’s western seaboard, Limerick's investment in culture in recent years has positioned the city and county as a vibrant, exciting and progressive place to be.

We especially recommend these upcoming events, which are a part of the Creative Ireland county initiatives and beyond, as well as several on-going projects that constantly ensure the promotion of creativity in the county.

Artists in Schools Programme - Limerick Arts Office

Image: iStock

Artists in Schools program enhances and diversifies creative education at primary school level by providing students with opportunities to actively engage in cultural production while working with professional creative practitioners.  In 2017, Limerick Arts Office introduced a structured program working with local festivals to build their capacity around education and provide young people with access to stimulating creative activities.

Elemental

Credit: Shane Serrano

Elemental Arts and Culture Festival takes place in September in Limerick City. The festival encompasses the arts in all their guises and is guided by a green ethos. Art hunts, animation, and art classes, street fests and more. September 8-10, 2017.  

The Mary Immaculate College Children’s Choir

Students from Thomond National School pictured at the MIC Children's Choir Performance in the Lime Tree Theatre on 31 March. Image: MIC.

The Mary Immaculate College Children’s Choir is a university - school partnership developed to make meaningful links with primary schools. MIC student volunteers and staff visit the schools on a weekly basis to work with children on a common repertoire. Children perform in MIC twice per semester in a ‘Big Sing’ involving all participating schools. Although an existing project before 2017, it will be deepened as a direct result of Creative Ireland this year. 

Symposium on Jack B. Yeats and Paul Henry – Hunt Museum

This year, the Hunt Museum’s annual symposium will focus on the massive impact of the works of painters Jack B. Yeats and Paul Henry, in tandem with an exhibition displaying some of their finest works. September 29, Limerick City.

Shannon Fisherman Archive

Limerick City and County Council Archives and Mary Immaculate College have committed to a major oral history project to capture and index the memories of the fishermen and other linked trades. In 2017,  communities living along the banks of the Shannon Estuary reaching from Parteen to Foynes, and including fishermen, reed cutters and net makers will be asked to contribute their stories for possible inclusion in a digital sound archive as an essential first step in the preservation of these stories. 

HearSay Audio Arts Festival

The HearSay Audio Arts Festival is a celebration of creative audio in all its forms, including radio features, film sound, sound art, theater sound, music and audio fiction. From September 29 - October 1, 2017, the world’s finest audio makers will descend upon the town of Kilfinane to share and teach their arts, and to compete for the 2017 HearSay Prize. This year’s theme is “Discovery.”

Limerick Film Archive

The Limerick Film Archive was created to locate and acquire film, video and cinema material of Irish interest, with particular emphasis on items relating to the mid-west region. Since its inception, the archive has been successful in acquiring over 100 film titles, over 800 hours of video material and a large file on local and national cinemas.  Creative Ireland funding will this year help leverage other sources of funding to begin the digitization of this important collection.

Open House Limerick

Touring Limerick's docks in 2016. Photo: Facebook

In Limerick City and across the county, buildings of architectural and cultural interest will open their doors to the public for free. Part of the global Open House movement. October 6 - 8, 2017.

West Limerick Singing Club - Gary McMahon Traditional Singing Weekend

The West Limerick Singing Club was formed in 2002 in Abbeyfeale and holds monthly singing sessions that give a platform to singers from the local community as well as visiting singers. It supports and promotes singing and storytelling in English and Irish. The club holds an annual traditional singing weekend in honor of Garry McMahon from October 20 - 22 in Abbeyfeale.

Queens of the Island Field - Moyross Community Drama

Members of Moyross Community Drama and members of St. Mary’s Women’s Group will bring the stories of senior citizens from the community to life in a dramatic performance. November 7 - 9, Limerick City.

Check out Co. Limerick’s full culture and creativity plans here.

Is there an upcoming event in Limerick you think people should know about? Tell us in the comment section.

Aer Lingus launching game-changing $201 transatlantic flights

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Irish airline Aer Lingus has announced the introduction of a new “Saver Fare” that will offer transatlantic travel between Ireland and North America for as little as $201 (€169) each way as part of a return trip. The new Aer Lingus fare type will compete with the fare options offered by rivals such as Norwegian Air and WOW Air by allowing passengers to pay a bottom-line basic fare and then pay extra for any additional features they desire.

Working alongside the Aer Lingus Smart Fare offering, Saver Fare will give passengers the choice to purchase a seat which includes one piece of 10kg cabin baggage, in-flight entertainment, and onboard meals. Guests can then choose from a range of added on extras, from checked baggage, seat selection, blanket, headphones, at additional cost.

“At Aer Lingus, we are committed to offering our guests the best value with the best service across our network and to North America,” said Declan Kearney, Aer Lingus Director of Communications, of the announcement.

“We recognize that there is not a one-size fits all for today’s traveler and we want to provide an array of fare choices for our guests. That’s why we have introduced our new Saver Fare, recognizing the desire for some travelers to go à la carte, book their flight and choose any additional extras should they so wish.

“While our new Saver Fare will appeal to certain travelers, our Smart Fare which includes all our usual extras is still great value to North America. With more choice than ever for today’s traveler, Aer Lingus represents the best value because we serve central airports, and offer four-star service now at an even more affordable price.”

Read more: Aer Lingus ranked one of the top 10 airlines in the world

The current Smart Fare is an all-inclusive option which includes checked baggage, free seat selection, blanket, and headphones. This option will still remain for Aer Lingus passengers who wish to make one booking with all the extras included with fares starting at $249 (€209).

The Saver Fare will become available on October 1, 2017, for flights between Ireland and North America.

North American visitors to Ireland up by 12.3%

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There has been a significant rise in travelers from North America to Ireland, according to the latest figures from the Dublin-based Central Statistics Office.

Trips by residents of North America to Ireland increased by 12.3 percent between May and July to 713,600 when compared with the same period last year.

Visits from what the office calls the “Other Europe” – which excludes Britain -- were 5.4 percent higher at 1,075,500.

The American and European visitors offset a fall of 3.8 percent of British visitors to 978,700 between May and July.

During the three-month period the total number of trips to Ireland increased by 4.4 percent to 2,967,600, an overall increase of 124,200 when compared with the same period 12 months earlier. 

The number of U.K. visits has been badly affected by the severe drop in the value of sterling against the euro, which made Ireland a much more expensive destination for British tourists.

The pound sterling devalued by almost 21.5 percent against the euro since before the Brexit vote in June 2016.

The euro also strengthened against the U.S. dollar in recent times, making Ireland also more expensive for American tourists despite the increase in their numbers.

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